Elmira Shermukhanbetova, a 32-year-old craftswoman from Shymkent, is working to fuse tradition with modernity. Shermukhanbetova is a master of biz embroidery, an ancient technique that reflects the Kazakhs’ nomadic roots. “No material is wasted, and almost no clean-up is required,” she explained. Traditionally, the technique was used to embroider large, decorative coverings for yurt walls. “Biz embroidery used to be ubiquitous in Kazakhstan—every girl knew how to do it,” explained Aizhan Bekkulova, Director of Our Heritage, partner organization of the Eurasia Foundation of Central Asia (EFCA) in the crafts revitalization project. “Today, very few people remember it.” Nevertheless, some pioneering craftspeople like Shermukhanbetova use biz for a variety of purposes, adapting it to the needs of modern life. “This technique is very accessible, and very satisfying,” Shermukhanbetova said. “You get a very beautiful result.”

Shermukhanbetova has been participating in EFCA’s crafts revitalization program since 2006. She has taken part in five EFCA-sponsored seminars and numerous crafts fairs. “I am extremely grateful to Aizhan Bekkulova, EFCA, and Chevron for giving me these opportunities to learn and to meet other craftspeople,” she said. “The knowledge I’ve gained has been extremely useful.” Based on recommendations from the program’s experts, she began to use natural materials and dyes in her clothing. In her capacity as design teacher at an arts college, she has passed on what she learned to her students, some of whom have employed these new methods in their diploma projects. Shermukhanbetova has also expanded her teaching activities. Last year, she led an EFCA-sponsored seminar on working with wool in Kostanai Oblast.

Shermukhanbetova began embroidering about eight years ago, although she was interested in the art from childhood. She was taught by her grandmother, and now seeks to fuse traditional elements with modern design by making clothes inspired by Kazakh national costumes. “I want to make clothing with a clear national influence that can be worn in everyday life and for formal occasions,” she explained. She wants her clothes to be practical and comfortable, but also memorable in their design.

Shermukhanbetova began by sewing children’s clothing for festivals, as well as women’s clothing for everyday wear. She has since expanded to designing her own fashion collections. Together with her sister, she opened a small sewing workshop to realize her vision of modern design that channels Kazakh tradition. “Initially, our work took place in rather primitive conditions,” she said. “We began with a manual sewing machine and two students. Now, we have good equipment and produce work of very high quality.” This spring, Shermukhanbetova prepared a 17-piece collection for the Sheber crafts competition. “After the collection was exhibited, we started getting more orders,” she said. Her workshop now receives orders from all over of Kazakhstan. “Thanks to Our Heritage and EFCA, people know about our work.”

Author: Maria Blackwood